For the love of Scandi fashion
What I saw with my own eyes at Copenhagen Fashion Week FW25
Hello friends!
Happy Black History Month!
Happy Fashion Month!
Last week I was in Copenhagen for their fashion week and it has taken me days to catch up from the jet lag and busyness of the work week. I went to 18 shows, 16 appointments and presentations, 3 breakfasts events, and 4 dinners all in a span of 5 days. Since being back home, I have been trying to collect my thoughts to share what I enjoyed the most about the experience.
For my first time being in Copenhagen, I really enjoyed the city. What’s not to love about the capital of Denmark — the easy living, the design aesthetic, the colorful buildings, the charming preservation of historic spaces, the Danish breakfast served all day (specifically the bread and butter), and then of-course the fashion. Copenhagen Fashion Week is one of the younger fashion weeks, just about 5 years old, with a stronghold in sustainability as a core focus, the talent shown there is something to take notice of — if you have not already. Like most fashion weeks, the time flies by, but being able to travel to another city and see the designers in their home turf is something that makes it all worthwhile. Brace yourself because I am here to dive into all things Scandi fashion.
The top 4 shows I loved…
Birrot
The first ever show by the Korean designers, Min Kim and Sey Hong; it was the 2nd show presented on Monday and it was just absolutely a beautiful collection. There is a clear identity and point of view with the designs of Birrot. While they lean towards a minimal style with clean lines, they are not scared to embrace color (there are beautiful shades of pink and red currently available online). The intention for this collection was the woman who is commuting and on the go. Copenhagen being a city where you are using your body to get you from point A to point B, whether you’re walking or biking, you need clothes that are going to allow you to move freely without restriction. Obviously a very similar way of living for NYC. The shapes are a nod to traditional Korean silhouettes of a modular uniform that are not designed for a specific type of person, yet designed to suit any age or identity. “Birrot for us is about the connection between Denmark and Korea. We grew up in Seoul and were inspired by traditional garments and learned Korean patterns as our foundation. Moving to Copenhagen introduced us to a totally new mindset and reshaped our approach to design. Korean garments are inherently about layering, designed to lie flat but come alive on the body. Whereas Danish design platforms function and simplicity,” says Hong.
As I was meeting with the designers, they kindly gifted me one of the pink jackets and then I ended up buying this pair of pants, which I highly recommend that you try. The fit is like a trouser, loose in the leg and long enough for a low heel or ballet flat; but a stretch waistband! The material for the majority of their pieces is this bonded crepe that is elevated, but also comfortable. Someone mentioned to me they weren’t sure about that material use for everything, which I respect that opinion, but I’m not mad at the continuous use of this material personally. This is going to be one of my favorite brands for years to come and I am excited about expanding my wardrobe and seeing where the designers continue to take the brand.
aiayu
This was actually listed as a “presentation” on the schedule, but presented as a proper show with models walking out. However it was not your run-of-the-mill show situation. Presented with so much intentionality and a lesson in layering, when the models first came out, they were styled in a lean layer of chic classic pieces by the brand. They walked the runway in a slow, yet thoughtful way, to the sounds of Danish cellist CTM, Cæcilie Trier, that allowed you to take in what you were seeing. I was intrigued to say the least. Then the same models came back out, but instead they were wearing more pieces, layered in a chic way for transitional style that leaves you thinking of how to recreate the same, but different, look. aiayu’s creative director, Maria Høgh Heilmann, shares, “For me, our Autumn Winter presentation feels like the perfect way to share the heart of aiayu. It’s all about getting close to the natural materials, zooming in on the delicate details of it, allowing their purity to truly shine.” Honing in on the use of pure natural materials with flawless craftsmanship, there was an effortless versatility that showed just how to transition from day to night or spring to fall to winter, seamlessly. I definitely took note!
Skall Studio
I was very familiar with this brand through pieces I had seen online, so I knew that I was going to enjoy this collection, but it instantly became a clear highlight. I didn’t receive the official notes on this collection, but the moment the first girl walked the runway, I was like yes! There was a clear realness and ease to the designs and styling from Skall Studios, which the brand was founded and designed by sisters, Julia and Marie Skall. The woman is effortlessly chic without trying too hard. I felt like Skall Studio showed nods to Scandi style in a way that everyone across the globe could adapt with their use of color (the full bright pink look, the cropped red barn jacket, and the bubblegum pink blazer looks are still stuck in my mind), the knits, and embroidered pieces. There were a few looks that I continue to go back to since they walked and I am now wanting to add these to my wardrobe when they are produced.
MKDT Studio
I was vaguely familiar with this brand as I waited to see the collection presented. It was shown in the National Gallery of Denmark, which already had me eagerly anticipating a beautiful collection as the runway setting was so special. One of the things that I love about attending fashion shows is being able to be immersed in the space where designers choose to show their collections. It becomes a part of the puzzle that brings everything to life. If only we had more time to walk around the gallery and take in the beauty of the permanent collections as well; but I digress… The collection was sophisticated and chic. I loved the ease of the ladies and gents in their business (part casual) attire. But the styling made it all so cool. The color palette with the oatmeal, pale blue, chocolate brown, cream, charcoal, and black, were all so wearable, but not boring. The double coats, blazers wrapped in a belt carried around like a clutch, the opera long beads worn to the back for a subtle dose of drama, the extra long belts on the guys, and the jewelry collaboration with fellow Danish designer, Kinraden, that included recycled sterling silver pieces of sculptural knots and intricate chains (I loved the sterling silver bolero ties!). In March our office will begin requiring us to report in four days a week (insanity!), but seeing this collection actually inspired me to want to get dressed for the office.
Honorable mentions (but also very much favorites too!)...
There were many other shows that I also enjoyed a great deal. OpéraSport, Forza Collective, and Bonnetje were younger brands on the schedule and each had an identity all their own. I was quite unfamiliar with each brand, but being able to see the collections up close in person, I really loved each. And then there was Stel, The Garment, Caro Editions, Cmmn Swdn, and Anne Sofie Madsen that all had compelling and special collections that I enjoyed very much.
The Jewels…
Throughout the week, I found that the appointments I attended were a big standout to break up the monotony of sitting at show after show. Visiting the studios and stores of Sophie Bille Brahe, LIÉ Studio, Elhanati, and Ragbag were just so special. Each brand is so different in their own right, showing off what they do best, and solidifying Copenhagen as a place to note for really special designs in jewelry.
Two brands I won’t stop talking about from Copenhagen…
People’s Republic of Cashmere… has become my ultimate favorite brand when it comes to the world of cashmere. Remember when I first started this newsletter and I shared all of the ways you can stay cozy by dressing yourself in the finest material this side of heaven?
I finally got to visit and meet the team at People’s Republic of Cashmere and I absolutely adore them. First, the designs are simple, which I think creating something well in the simplest of ways is an art form, and then next they are practical and classic staples you will want to wear forever. People’s Republic of Cashmere is the real deal and they have some lovely pieces coming down the pipeline that I got to preview.
…for the leopard pieces here!
tekla, Tekla, TEKLA!!! If you know me well, then you know that I obsess over this brand. It was during the pandemic when we were all at home and spending more time inside, when I took more notice being comfortable at home. It was Tekla that made me excited to wear pajamas with their chic blue stripes and my love for this brand was formed. And it does not stop at pajamas — there are also towels, robes, cozy slippers (they collaborated with Birkenstock last year), and there are even pieces for kids. Being able to visit their flagship, an actual brick and more space, and be immersed in the brand was such a treat. I used to be someone who only enjoyed all white linens in my bedroom, and then I got dogs and that’s very hard to maintain with little paws that travel everywhere. But Tekla’s approach to color with the way they mix colors, and the use of stripes, just makes you want to have fun and switch things up. Don’t get me wrong, I still do love white, but trust me, the colors that Tekla offers will make you change your mind and rethink the whole approach. I was even treated to a lovely spa experience at the Amazing Space at Hotel D’Angleterre (thank you, Tekla!)
And after speaking with the cofounder of Tekla, Kristoffer Juhl, he shared that a store in NYC is in the works, so be on the look for that soon.
All in all, my experience in Copenhagen was one that I won’t forget. I wish I had the foresight to break up this post and share my experience daily as there is just so much to cover (I didn’t even get to beauty!). Next time! But if you have not been to Copenhagen or are not familiar with these brands, I invite you to take a trip, explore, and immerse yourself with really good quality fashion that is coming out of Denmark.
And today kicks off the official start to New York fashion week, so get ready for my daily recount of my robust schedule! I’m already tired just thinking about all of the happenings! And it’s snowing practically everyday…!
May the force of fashion be with you!
xo Kia